Mom's night out

So this evening after dinner and following our after-dinner-swim, H put the kids to bed while I went to the grocery store. Not being able to drive puts some kinks in the normal routine of things. First, as we haven't had the chance to find a housekeeper / nanny, I can't run any errands without dragging the kids with me. Taking the kids with me to the grocery store really isn't a problem, however, since we don't have a full-time driver going to the grocery store in something other than our car with the kids means taking the kids in a car without car seats. (This doesn't seem to be a problem for a lot of people here. The locals have kids crawling all over the place in the car, it doesn't seem as if seatbelts are big here and although I've seen car seats sold here, I have yet to see one in a car). From the expats, I have gotten a surprised look when I say we don't have a driver...but, today at least, I just cant imagine that that is really necessary.

Anyway back to my story, so after the after-dinner-swim I called for a car, put on my abaya and ventured out on my own. Now, I don't know what you're thinking right now, but you may be thinking one of two things...(1) why is that such a big deal? or (2) you did what???!!! ;-) Well, really it isn't such a big deal. The crime rate in KSA is well below that of most major metropolitan areas in the US. That said, it is true that westerners are targets for crime. Just as various groups are targets in other, even western, nations. I think that from the outside there is this perspective that KSA is may be a dangerous place for women. I have not personally felt any more threatened here than any where else. On the contrary, I have found people to be as courteous, friendly, and helpful as in the US (sorry Sweden). And sure, anyplace is a dangerous place if you aren't respectful to the customs and culture or if you take unnecessary risks. And isn't it so that we are often frightened by that which we don't understand? OK, back to my story.

The car was on its way when I remembered that I didn't have any time left on my mobil phone...but then my all knowing and wise husband reminded me that I bought a mobil which took 2 sim cards so I could switch over to my Swedish plan and voila! Air time.

The car arrived and I told the driver to take me to the mall (the grocery store is adjacent to the mall) and asked him to wait outside. He quickly jotted down a telephone number on a tissue and told me that I could call when I was leaving the store...I re-read the number to him and got out of the car amidst a symphony of honking horns (oh, how people love to honk their horns here!). Once inside the mall I thought I should test the number but being the non-technological being that I am, it took me quite awhile to figure out how to switch from my Saudi sim to my Swedish sim. I stood there, with my shopping cart, phone, and tissue trying to figure it out, pressed some buttons and then the telephone wanted to restart and the entire time I am thinking "uh-oh, I hope I'm not stuck here without a phone." (and no car!)

As I am standing, staring at my telephone and wondering why, why, why. I hear for what I think is the 4th time "madam, please". What? Is somebody talking to me? I look up.

"Madam, please"

"Yes", I say.

"Madam, please, cover your hair".

I quickly took up my hijab and covered my hair...THE MUTAWWA! Could this man have been mutawwa? This madam please man? After all of the horror stories I have heard?

Mutawwa are the religious police and they enforce the form of Islam which is Saudi law but most conservatively in the Najd region and its capital, Riyadh. In KSA there is no separation of religion and state, there is no state without Islam. Everything is carried out, at least an attempt is made, according to the Koran (Q'ran). And the mutawwa have a baaaaaaad reputation.

I thought he would hiss at me...not this madam please. How comlpetely non-traumatic. Is KSA going to live up to any of the rumors??? ;-)